Thai Tham: Bangkok's Legendary Pork Brain Soup in Phraeng Phuthon

Thai Tham pork brain soup, the very first shop to receive the Shell Chuan Chim recommendation, is well worth a visit. This tasty local favorite in Phraeng Phuthon has been open for more than 60 years, making it a true legend of Thai food, and prices are still easy on the wallet.

For the real pork brain soup, it has to be Thai Tham. This famous shop in Phraeng Phuthon opened in 1957 and earned its reputation as the first restaurant in Thailand recommended by Shell Chuan Chim, the guide of M.R. Thanadsri Svasti, one of the country's best-known food experts, in October 1961. Its signature dish, pork brain soup, has made its name for decades.

The pork brain is cooked using a Hakka Chinese recipe. Khun Praiphit Khachachiwa (Khun Yoi), the founder's granddaughter and the third generation to run the shop, says everything is made by hand without machines, because machines get dirty easily over time. All the sides are made in-house too, nothing is bought in: crunchy meatballs, fish balls, pork and radish balls, stuffed tofu, mini meatballs, pork sausage, liver sausage and fried mackerel skin. In the old days people called it the Five Pot Shop, because the meatballs and sides were kept in five separate pots.

Many people hesitate when they hear the name, and yes, it really is pork brain. But it is not gamey at all. It is soft and silky and practically melts in your mouth, with no off smell. You really need to try it for yourself.

For eaters like us it was an eye-opening experience. The first time we saw it, we were not sure we dared, but it is honestly worth trying at least once. Some people may be put off by the word brain, but it is also valued as nourishing food.

People search for all sorts of tonics to keep healthy, from Chinese and Thai remedies to Western supplements and ginseng. In traditional Chinese medicine, pork offal cooked as food is also considered a tonic, and pork brain is part of that belief.

Here are the benefits traditionally attributed to pork brain:

• Said to nourish declining brain power in older people
• Said to support intelligence in children
• Recommended for people who overwork their minds and feel dizzy
• Some claim extracts from pork brain may help with Alzheimer's

One important caution: people with high blood pressure or high cholesterol should not eat it.

The shop does not only sell pork brain soup. Other dishes include pork liver sausage (unusual and made in-house), pork sausage and crispy fried mackerel skin. Everything is made fresh daily, so you can be sure it is clean and fresh.

The shop is on Phraeng Phuthon. Coming in from Atsadang Road, it is just a short way into the lane on the right. Food sells out fast, so come early.

The Sam Phraeng area also has other great places to eat, such as Nattaporn Ice Cream, Krua Som Hom and The Knight House cafe. Sam Phraeng is made up of Phraeng Phuthon, Phraeng Sanphasat and Phraeng Nara, an old Bangkok neighborhood packed with good food and well worth a weekend stroll. Note that most shops close on Sundays; Saturday has the widest choice.

Thai Tham Pork Brain Soup, Phraeng Phuthon

Location: Thai Tham Kao Lao Samong Moo, Phraeng Phuthon Road, San Chao Pho Suea, Phra Nakhon, Bangkok

Hours: 07:00–14:00 (closed every Sunday)

Phone: 02 221 7612

Parking: None

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Author Meeting Point Management Team, MBA มหาวิทยาลัยธรรมศาสตร์ MBA University of Technology Sydney (UTS) DBA มหาวิทยาลัยธรรมศาสตร์ Editorial Team

The Meeting Point management team loves eating, travelling, temple visits and lifestyle. We pick the restaurants, cafes, stays, attractions and temples we have visited ourselves and write about them honestly.